March 29, 2011

Review: MD (now Dr.Dennis Gross) Skincare Hydra Pure Vit C serum

I recently mentioned in my skincare routine post that I had been using this new vitamin C serum, so it's time now I give you my word about it.

What the brand says:
"By combining the benefits of the Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex® with multiple forms of Vitamin C working on all layers of the skin, density is improved and lines and wrinkles are diminished while simultaneously slowing the future aging process." - Dr. Dennis Gross

How you use it:
You need to use it on clean dry skin at night, as sunlight deactivates Vitamin C, so using it for daytime would be less effective and would require a high sun protection factor.

The ingredients list, (I recommend you all read it this time):

Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclomethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Peg/Ppg-18/18 Dimethicone, Squalane, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Quercetin Caprylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Pentasodium Pentetate, Phytic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Potassium Gluconate, Tetrasodium Edta, Purified Water (Aqua Purificata), Phenoxyethanol.

My experience with the product:

As you have read in the ingredients (see? I told you you needed to read the ingredients), the product is quite rich in silicones. I was a bit worried about it at first - not that I really have a problem with silicones but sometimes it's used to give the skin a smoothing effect without any real action on the skin condition. But I was explained that, as Vitamin C is very instable, the silicones help stabilizing it and keeping it active - fine by me.
Also, from what I've read on the web, this is one of the most active serums on the market, combining 3 types of vitamin C for effectiveness.

The packaging is totally opaque to protect the serum, and comes with a pump that you twist in and out. I think it's very clever, practical and hygienic - the bottle is also quite light. I wouldn't mind taking it along to travel.
The serum itself is white and siliconey, very easy to apply and feels very smooth.

More reference to the ingredients list: the product contains AHA, e.g. salicylic acid and lactic acid. Since I was using those ingredients already and liking the effect on my skin, I'm quite glad they're included in this serum, this way I get a small daily dosis and it helps keeping the skin smoother.
I have read, though, that some people have experienced stinging and reactions when using this serum but if you're sensitive to AHA, that must be the reason. I must also say that if my skin's a tad bit irritated, I will experience the stinging too, but it's nothing dramatic and I really don't mind.

The one problem I have is that I don't know when to put on moisturizer. The instructions mentioned that you could use moisturizer from the range on top of the serum but I don't really see how any moisturizer would get through that layer of silicone and reach my skin. I've tried to find information about that and have heard 2 main theories:
- the silicon evaporates from the skin, so if you wait a bit before applying moisturizer on top, it will reach the skin
- the silicon will act like a barrier, so you need to apply the moisturizer first
These contradictory information coming from equally reliable sources, taking a side was hard - I have decided to either use the serum alone or moisturize first.

The overall result.
I haven't experienced the same fantastic results I had had with the Vichy serum, but I do see a difference when using this: my skin is brighter than when I don't, and a bit smoother as well.
However I'm not sure yet if I'll repurchase or try something else, purely because of the price: $95, £58. I had been lucky to get it on sale from Zuneta, but at the full price I'm not sure - if I can find something cheaper with similar results, I'll probably give it a try.
On the other hand, my skin deserves good treatments, and if I don't find an alternative, I'll gladly keep using this product because it works well. The product doesn't have a short shelf life so I know I can finish the pricy bottle and won't have to throw away some product.

1 comment:

  1. I think most anythig with vitamin C helps the skin look brighter doesn't it? I still need to get on the Vichy bandwagon.


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