February 29, 2012

The ultimate guide to Illamasqua foundations.

Recently, the funniest makeup artist on YouTube aka the talented Dustyohunter released a series of videos meant to be a guide to Illamasqua foundations.

This video is actually the "master" one, that links to other videos showing the application for each Illamasqua foundation available.

I did find it a very interesting series, and thought I would share it with you, but I also thought it would be a good opportunity for me to summarize my thoughts on those foundations, since I have used all of them myself. Of course, I did review them, but as time goes you sometimes find new tricks or make new comparisons. Also, my opinion and my application tips sometimes differ from Dustin's, so even if you saw those videos, you might still learn something new :)

Rich Liquid Foundation.
This one is definitely the trickiest of the bunch, to the point that I would almost say it'd better be left to pros. But if you are looking for the fullest coverage ever and you apply with the right technique, this is simply stunning.
Dustin talks about how you can mix it with moisturizer (yes, it will make the product easier to work with, but for me, also less long-lasting) and about how he applied it alone using quite a large amount.
For me what works best is the way I was taught at the Illamasqua counter in Selfridge's, London: use less than a pea size for the whole face, and use a blush-type brush and very light, feathery strokes. That will give you the best flawless result and yes, that little amount will be enough for a full face. (My favorite brush for this is the Real Techniques Stippling brush). Since the texture is quite dry, make sure your skin is well prepped, especially if you're dry skinned.

What I do most of the time with this foundation is use it in conjunction with a lighter one, concentrating this on the areas where I have hyperpigmentation issues or redness. It acts like an eraser on top of any other foundation.

Light Liquid Foundation.
Sheer dewy coverage, easy to apply with hands or brush, this one is a no-brainer but it's also comparable to lots of other products on the market. I also find that, as it is water based, the feeling on the skin can be a bit plasticy - which the new generation of water based foundations like Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua doesn't do anymore. I feel this is a more pigmented equivalent of Mac Face & Body, but not as long-lasting (and so maybe not suitable for body use).

Cream Foundation.
Dustin complained about the lack of coverage of this one. I find that if you apply it with a sponge rather than a brush, you do get more coverage. I use this one in very cold weather, as this gives my dry cheeks a nice dewy finish and some protection. I wouldn't use it all year long because I find the application takes quite a bit of time. When I don't want to use a sponge, I'll go with a flat top brush - but that always takes more time than slapping on liquid with your hands.

Powder Foundation.
This is my least favorite of the bunch. I don't use powder foundation unless we're in hot summer and I want to top a tinted moisturizer with powder on my T-zone for longevity. This one smells good, but other than that it flies everywhere (you can see that in the video too) and I find it doesn't last too long. I'm using it up as a powder for touch-ups. However if you want to use this as a foundation, make sure you use a good flat-top kabuki for good coverage and buff it in a lot.

Skin Base.
The best of the bunch, in my opinion, and one that anyone can use as it's foolproof. It's almost as covering as Rich Liquid but the texture is much easier to work with and the finish is flawless and slightly dewy.
The only reason why I'm not using this is because it broke me out - I made several attempts and it always did. I'm very upset about that. Also, it didn't have the best longevity on me, but I must say I never powdered it, so I might have improved that with a bit of powder on the t-zone.
As Dustin said, beware of the color chart: these run really light. I am a neutral NC15 wearing 133 in their other foundations, I ordered shade #3 and it looked ridiculously pale on me! I had to go with #6 to have a perfect match.

Hope this is helpful! Feel free to add your own tips and tricks or experiences in the comments.

1 comment:

  1. Red Bull, CHECK.... Headphones, CHECK.... Office to myself?... Double CHECK! Time to relax and watch your video :)


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